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No one will sell you off road diesel here unless they have a copy of your agricultural exemption from the county on file. I could say it was for heating oil but no one would believe that in the middle of a Texas summer. I think I'll figure out some way to mount a couple of 55 gallon drums on the trailer and haul those to be filled with the $1.65 a gallon stuff. (That really hurts). I'll use the FEL to offload them when I get home and get a barrel pump, hose and nozzle from TSC as suggested. That's probably the easiest way to handle things. Thanks for the help and suggestions.

Howdo You Guys Handle Diesel
Parts and Repair
Replies 7 Post by Frank R Taylor

Mark has my sympathy. Our house is 45 years old and it is a full time job repairing, rebuilding and replacing things, especially toilets. They haven't been manufactured for 40 years and finding spares is getting tougher and tougher. Thank goodness for the Internet but it all detracts from tractor time. I've been looking for a water leak for the past 3 months and haven't found it yet. Just about to the point of trenching and laying a new one but I'd have to cut across sprinkler lines to do it. I'll keep looking for a little while longer unless someone out there has a bright idea on how to find it. Tell me, why do they bury wellheads 5' deep where you are? Is it because of the weather? Here in east Texas the wellhead and tanks are always right on surface, usually protected by a wellhouse of some kind with a light or small plug in heater to prevent freezing during the winter.

deep well jet pumps
Home Improvement
Replies 21 Post by Frank R Taylor

I do like what Art recommends, I mow my steep slopes with the FEL mounted.<br>
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It would scare me to death to have the front end get light or buck. I have been known to throw a couple of 50# sacks in the FEL too. When you have that much weight low and out in front of the tractor it is a lot safer climbing stright up slopes than with just the equivalent amount of weights attached.<br>
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When the loader is kept low, as it should be, there is no problem with seeing ahead although you do have to change your technique mowing up to fences and around trees but it's no real hardship and really doesn't take any longer. <br>
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I drove a tractor with true foam filled tires (not the antipuncture gel stuff) and the ride was a little harder than normal but when you ride a tractor with R4's, the ride is pretty hard to begin with. I can't remember exactly what the cost to have them filled was but it was high. If you have a problem with punctures and hate changing tires or can't afford the downtime, it might be worth it but surely not just for stability - I would have thought that weights would have been a lot cheaper.

Front weights
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by Frank R Taylor

I'd agree with everything Art said. I bought my B2400 new because there wasn't anything on the used market at that time and with reasonable care I would expect to get 10,000 hours out of it at least. I put about 150/200 hours a year on it. You do the math. At the farm both our tractors are old, late 60's and early 70's. They are used for pasture mowing, feeding during the winter and spraying occasionally. Things do go wrong with them occasionally but a lot of those failures are associated with them sitting around and not being used enough. When I take them to get fixed and complain to the mechanic, who sold them to us originally, about the need to have them replaced, he tells me that they outlasted my father, they'll outlast me and, "How old is my son now anyway?" He says the new ones are a bit more refined but that if I think a cup holder and CD/radio are worth tens of thousands of dollars, he'll sell me a new tractor. In other words, if a machine with 3500 hours on it has been well maintained and looked after, I wouldn't be afraid of buying it but as has been said earlier I would put away some money in my piggy bank "just in case". I know alot of the bigger farmers and ranchers around here have about a 3 year replacement policy on their tractors simply because they don't want to bother or be hindered by the occasional mechanical breakdown. Those machines come on the market with appoximately 3000 hours on them and are usually well used but well maintained. I don't think I would be too worried about buying one of those either. I can stand a little downtime. I would get the history of the machine, any dealer should be able to help you there, and as you said stay away from the contractor/rental stuff.

HOW MANY TRACTOR HOURS IS TOO MANY HOURS
Parts and Repair
Replies 8 Post by Frank R Taylor

I live on 13 acres with a 8-9 acre, partially wooded, pasture. There is a gully running through the middle of the pasture and the slopes are pretty steep. I looked at a 21hp for my place but the dealer talked me into the 24hp. It was the best thing he ever did for me. It has just enough power to handle the steep slopes with a 4' bushhog and it is not too big and heavy to handle the yard with a 5' finishing mower. I was worried about compacting the soil. So, for my use my B2400 is almost ideal although I sometimes wish it had a bit more power to handle a 5' cutter. <br>
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The estimate of 1 to 1-1/2 hours per acre with a 4' cutter is pretty close, depending on how rough it is. So I take about 10 hours to cut my pasture (it's rough AND steep). I usually spread it over 2 days (it gets hot in Texas during the summer) but only do it about 4 times a year.<br>
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To get back to your question, "yes", you will be able to do it with a B7500 as long as it is fairly level but I would have thought that it would have been at the very bottom end of the acceptable models. The B2410 would probably be better and the B2710 almost ideal. The B2910 would be getting towards the top end of the scale. The B2710 will handle a 5' cutter and just about anything else you you have in mind but as has been said before, "It depends on what else you want to do". The B7500 and my B2400 handle the same size range of implements. If you want to step up in implement size, you need the B2710, at least. <br>
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At the farm, we have our hay cut on a share basis. We fertillize and the guy who does the cutting gets 50% of the hay baled. The deal works well and would be the ideal solution. Get someone else to cut and bale for you either for a percentage or a fee. <br>
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In ending, I would like to say that I have often heard people complain that their "tractor is too small and takes too much time" but I haven't heard many complain about their tractor being too big, unless they are trying to fit it into tight spaces. <br>
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In the end it is always a compromise. It depends on the total "package" of work you want to do, and do in the future, with the machine. If you are going to make a mistake, err on the side of the larger machine. A few extra horsepower never goes amiss. <br>
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I hope this helps and welcome to the "club". You'll enjoy your tractor, no matter what model you end up with. It's the most fun you can legally have.

City Boy moves to the country
Kubota Tractors
Replies 21 Post by Frank R Taylor

I have a 2 year old B2400 with almost 250 hours on it. I think I paid just over $17,000 for it with FEL and rear grooming mower. With the backhoe, I'd guess that the new cost would be over $20,000 so a 25% reduction for a machine with 610 hours on it doesn't seem like too bad a deal. The question is whether you really need the backhoe. For me it's a nice to have and not a need to have as I wouldn't use it very much and I think that it's the same with most people. The machine itself is a good piece of equipment and it has never let me down. It'll do most things I want to do but as with all smaller tractors it often just takes a little more time. I sometimes wish for a few extra horsepower but I don't want the additional size and weight so it's almost ideal for me. My guess would be that the dent on the hood was caused by something rolling backwards out of the FEL. I can't figure out why turfs on the front and R4's on the rear though. Maybe someone else can comment on the different rolling circumferences of the 2 different types of tires and what effect it might have.

Price check on B2400 Is it worth it
Kubota Tractors
Replies 8 Post by Frank R Taylor

Beet pulp .... what will they think of next? I often wonder who comes up with these ideas and what kind of mind it takes to think of them. Human ingenuity never fails to amaze me. Perhaps there is hope for the future. Now if someone could come up with some way of holding my aging body together for another 20 or 30 years so I can enjoy my tractor a bit longer I'd be very grateful.

quot Rim Guard quot for filling tires
Parts and Repair
Replies 6 Post by Frank R Taylor

My tractor ownwer's manual recommended the max weight and size for my particular model. I ended up with a Kuhn EL-32, 50" tiller behind my Kubota B2400 (18 PTO hp) and it works well. It's big enough to cover the tire tracks and although right at the max weight recommended, it is easily handled by the 3-pt. If you go to the Kuhn site you will be able to size a tiller to fit your tractor but a 6' tiller sounds OK for your application. As far as "slow" is concerned, when you start using it, it will tell you how slow you need to go. When I first tilled my garden I did it in 3 passes to get to full depth because of all the rocks but now I can till it in 1 pass fairly quickly with only the occasional "bang and bounce" because of the hidden rocks I haven't got out yet.

Rototiller Ground Speed
Operating and Attachments
Replies 7 Post by Frank R Taylor

If the cut is in the sidewall and it's not too big, it can be fixed by gluing a ribber "boot" over the cut on the inside of the tire and using a tube. I usually have them put in a tube whenever I get my first flat. It means you can still get air in the tire even if it is off the rim. I looked into foam filled tires a while back and I can't remember what the cost was but it was expensive and the dealer said it would make the tractor extremely rough riding and while he could have it done, he didn't really recommend it for ag machines. He did it mainly for construction machinery that couldn't afford any down time.

foam-filled tires
Parts and Repair
Replies 6 Post by Frank R Taylor

I took Bird's advice and installed a tiltmeter on my B2400 a while back. I found that my pucker factor increases exponentially once I got over 15 degrees. That leaves a small safety factor for when the tires drop into a hole or rut on the downside of the slope when I'm mowing my pasture. I also keep the FEL bucket in a lowered position. I try never to cut the grass when it's wet. It's too easy to slide down the slope totally out of control. I did it once on a big Massey at the farm when the 7' mower broke loose and dragged the tractor sideways down the slope. That thing seemed to hover there on 2 wheels forever before before it finally crashed back down on all four. I don't mind admitting, it scared the everloving hell out of me. Now I tend to err on the side of caution when on slopes of any kind.

Tractor Roll Over
Tractor Projects
Replies 27 Post by Frank R Taylor

You can use a finishing mower but you have to take it nice and easy. I've done it a few times but I found that unless your pasture is reasonably flat and level it can be hard on the mower blades, belts and linkages. Considering the large difference in cost between a finishing mower and a bush hog I found it to be a lot easier to spend a few hundred dollars on a bush hog and buy some peace of mind. Perhaps I worry too much.

Prepareing fields
Parts and Repair
Replies 8 Post by Frank R Taylor

Andrew, I'm originally from the U.K. and I can't believe that the basic pieces of equipment you mention are not available over there. There may be a terminology barrier that needs to be overcome but if you explain to your dealer I'm sure he will catch on. If not, I'd have serious reservations about him. His lack of knowledge will almost certainly translate into lack of service. Perhaps you need to talk to some smaller construction companies and find out where they get their equipment. Shipping stuff directly from the States would be cost prohibitive because most of equipment is pretty heavy. Apart from the freight charges, you also have to deal with British Customs which I know from experience can be greedy and expensive. Happy hunting and I hope you can find what you need.

UK availability of implements
Operating and Attachments
Replies 4 Post by Frank R Taylor

I'm away from home right now so I'm going to be a bit vague on the details I'm afraid. Mine is the older, utilitarian model. No pneumatic tires on my old soldier. It has the Briggs engine but I'm not sure of the hp. 10.5 hp sounds a bit much, I want to say it is in the 8hp range but it was the largest available at the time of purchase. Whatever it is it hasn't missed a beat. Starts first time and runs as long as it has gas. I don't use it as much on rough pastures now that I have the B2400. It's reserved for steep, steep slopes and clearing around the lake at the farm where there are still stumps and deadwood that would hurt the little rotary mower on my little tractor and it's no place to take one of the bigger farm machines. With the brush blade it will run up and over 1" - 1-1/2" saplings and then you better watch out because pieces of wood are going to be flying out of there as it mulches them up. Weeds and vines are no contest. Mine isn't the prettiest machine you ever saw, it's been in the brush wars and collected a few battle scars, but what it was designed and built to do, it does very well and with the lawn mower deck it does double duty. I wouldn't trade it, except for a newer model, but as long as this one keeps running I can't see that happening in the near future.

DR Brush Mower
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 15 Post by Frank R Taylor

What I did when looking for a tiller for my B2400HST was to find the maximum weight recommended in the owner's handbook and then search for one within the weight specs but wide enough to cover the rear wheels. I ended up getting a Kuhn and would recommend their web page as a starting place to spec it out. Will it handle sod? ... in a heartbeat. The only problem is that as you till the sod, you bury the seeds that are lying on the surface so it does grow back and need retilling. Mine tilled in the sod, broke up a hardpan layer 4"-6" below the surface and found some buried concrete and rebar which it did a good job of mangling. It's a pretty tough piece of machinery. I started off tilling at about 2", then 4" and then full depth to give a beautiful seedbed. Good luck on your search..

Need a tiller for my Kubota B7100HST
Kubota Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Frank R Taylor

I've been in Texas for 16 years but originally I come from Aberdeen and know the Highlands well. Let me say for a start that you have my sympathy. Depending on where you live, you are in for a lot of hard work. As far as manufacturers are concernrd, don't forget about Massey and the European makes that will be more common there than they are here. 4-wheel drive will also be a benefit. As far as size is concerned, for 1 acre you don't need anything too big but don't forget that the smaller it is the longer it will take you to do things although you can usually manage to get it done with a little common sense and ingenuity. For a start you WILL need a front end loader. Carrying or wheelbarrowing those rocks will make an old man of you in a hurry and you can use it to clear snow in winter. With the FEL you can either dig them out or roll them if they aren't too large. Backhoes are expensive and I don't think you can justify one. If you do need one, hire it, contract it out or befriend some of the locals with a big tractor that are close by you. If you want any kind of garden you need to get those rocks out of there. You probably need something like a middle buster to break up the soil and maybe a single bottom plough (British spelling) to turn it over. You probably don't need to buy a rototiller, they're expensive and you'll probably damage it on the larger rocks. You can hire a walk behind tiller for an acre and it'll do a good job. It'll be hard work but more cost efficient. Then you need a lanscape rake or such to gather up the smaller rocks once you have dug and dragged the larger ones out and lastly a harrow to smoothe it out (an old bed spring will work good for this). Then you are just about set to do what you want to do. I know this is pretty general advice but I hope it helps.

Used compact query - UK
Kubota Tractors
Replies 7 Post by Frank R Taylor

I live in East Texas and there is no shortage of pine needles to pick up at this time of year. I use an old Sears sweeper that I inherited, pulled behind the B2400. Once you have the brush height set it works fairly well. The only problem is that the sweeper doesn't hold all that much before you have to run off and dump it. The needles don't compost very well so I use them as mulch in the garden and to cover the paths between the vegetable rows and just till them in at the end of the year. If someone comes up with an easier and better method, I'm listening.

Picking-up Pine needles
Garden and Landscape
Replies 14 Post by Frank R Taylor

This is a subject that is close to my heart. The Kubota L3710 with a cab would probably be my ideal tractor if I could just afford it. Ofcourse, I would still need to keep the B2400 for mowing the lawn because it is so light. I think the L3710 is the smallest Kubota tractor with HST that you can get a cab on. Like Bird, I live in Texas and that air conditioner gets more of a necessity every year. I don't have anything to add to the drawbacks of having a cab but I think I could live with them just to feel that cold air blowing. Last year I did mow approx 30 acres on the farm tractor without the air conditioner or even the fan and as the the other poster said it was absolutely miserable. Opening the windows in that 100 degree heat didn't make any difference and with the sun beating through the glass I was lucky to get out of there without getting heat stroke. I was saturated through and through and dehydrated. Not one of my more fun experiences but it had to be done.
It would seem to me that the L3710 would be an ideal choice for what your friend wants to do and I'm jelous.

Upgrading a JD Which Kubota What configuration
Kubota Tractors
Replies 9 Post by Frank R Taylor

I tow the Befco 6' mower behind my Kubota B2400 without any trouble and I feel I could handle the 7' model just as easily. I felt that the 7' model was just too big to get into and between some of the trees that I have to mow around. The only negative thing about the mower was that it tended to leave windrows of cut grass if for any reason I let it get too tall or cut it when it was wet. Some of the grass I have to cut on the bottom part of the garden is pasture grass that I am slowly reclaiming. I installed a mulching kit that pretty much cured the windrow problem but it meant that I have to mow at a slower speed. Still, I have the time and it's better than those unsightly clumps of grass that have to be picked up. If your land is relatively flat and open and the grass isn't too tall or tough, I don't think you will have a problem with the 7' mower. It will be harder to maneuver though.

Sizing rear finish deck to tractor
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 4 Post by Frank R Taylor

Dave Wells .... you're my hero. I usually have to trade off with my wife every time I get a new toy for the tractor ... build her a new deck in exchange for for a tiller, etc. At present I'm working on a post-hole digger and landscape rake for a spa. I think I'm getting shafted on that one but ofcourse I NEED the post-hole digger to build the deck. That one man, gas driven post-hole digger (like the walk behind tiller) is getting to be more work than I care to do these days. More power to you and keep up the good work. You give us all hope.

Help I need information
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 21 Post by Frank R Taylor

Yea, I think I'll just have to get out the old pencil and paper and see if I can design a system with a timer, PVC pipe and soaker hoses. Should be fun. I could use sprinklers but like you I'd rather put the water where it's needed. The only problem I've found is that during the summer varmits will chew through the soaker hoses to try to get to the water. There has to be a good, efficient way to do this, I just have to give it some more thought.

Irrigation
Garden and Landscape
Replies 6 Post by Frank R Taylor